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The
New York Post
December
4, 2006
by Marina
Vataj
DIAMONDS, they say,
are forever. But this holiday season, you could get one that
is considerably younger.
That's because for the first time New Yorkers can buy a diamond
made not by thousands of years of underground compression,
but four days in a machine. Synthetic diamonds retail for
75 percent less than those dug from the Earth - but they
aren't cubic zirconia or moissanite. They're real.
"We essentially create the environment in which diamonds
grow by emulating what occurs below the Earth's surface in
a laboratory setting," says Clark McEwen, chief operating
officer for Gemesis, the Florida-based company devoted to
growing gem quality diamonds. "There are no differences.
They are made from exactly the same material that natural
diamonds are made from."
With the new Leonardo DiCaprio flick "Blood Diamond" hitting
theatres, it's no surprise that alternatives to politically
incorrect conflict diamonds are sparking serious interest.
In addition to creating synthetics, more companies, particularly
those that mine in Canada, now advertise their wares as non-conflict
gems.
Gemesis' synthetics are made using the tiny shard of a real
diamond, which grows, molecule by molecule, after carbon
and nitrogen are added under extreme heat and pressure.
Even the Gemological Institute of America - the foremost
diamond research group - recognizes these diamonds as authentic. "They
are exact in terms of physical, chemical and optical properties," says
Dr. James Shigley, research director for GIA. "The only
people who would be able to recognize that these diamonds
weren't grown under ground are trained gemologists -and even
they'd have to use a microscope."
Although synthetic diamonds have been grown for industrial
purposes for years, these diamonds are big enough to be cut,
set and adorned -preferably with white gold or platinum.
But there's a catch: They only come in yellow and orange.
"It's all the technology allows for," says Ben
Burne, a marketing representative for Solaura, the brand
name of the jewelry made from Gemesis' stones.
The problem is that in order to make a clear, colorless diamond,
nitrogen would have to be removed - but that would make everything
unstable. "And the result would be a stone too imperfect
to work with," Burne says.
The attraction for husbands and boyfriends is obvious. Cost
conscious consumers can save about 75 percent by opting for
lab grown canary diamonds- and they're also about 10 percent
cheaper than colorless diamonds(non-conflict stones generally
cost 10 percent more for the conscience clearing guarantees).
"We're making diamonds that are so underserved in the
market - so rare and expensive - more accessible to the general
public," Burne says. "Most people can't afford
to buy a natural, one-carat stone for $20,000, but now they
can buy the same size and color stone that's manmade for
$6,000."
There's only one thing left, and that's to persuade an entire
gender. Because when it comes to diamonds, women count most.
"I actually love yellow diamonds, and if I saw that
the clarity was great and that jewelers recognize this as
real, I would absolutely consider it," says Allison
Wiess Brady, a socialite who divides her time between Manhattan
and Miami. "And the fact that it's less money is great!
With holidays are coming up, my husband should definitely
take a look at them."
But we can't all agree.
"I wouldn't mind getting a diamond that was grown in
a lab as a gift for fun, but I definitely think that my boyfriend
would be copping out if he got it as my engagement ring," says
Jacqueline Bauer, a financial operator. "I'd want something
that was in the Earth for millions of years and expensive
for a sentimental ring."
You can order Solaura rings at solaurajewelry.com
* Gemesis takes four days to "grow" a diamond like
the ones seen here. They can be mounted by a company named
Solaura into a Princess Yellow Gold ring, 1.51 ct., $5,995
(above, lying flat) and a Princess White Gold, 1.50ct., $5,995
(above, standing).
* Adamas rings include, from top, an Orange Radiant Cut,
1.05 ct.,$4,995; Yellow Radiant, 2.13 ct., $8,995; and Vivid
Yellow, 1.56 ct.,$8,995.
Don't want man-made? Try these 'non-conflict' diamonds
Brilliant Earth
PRIVATELY owned since 2005 by Beth Gerstein and Eric Grossberg,
Brilliant Earth Diamonds are non-conflict diamonds that are
mined in Canada's Northwest Territories. Available at BrilliantEarth.com
- Davik Mine: Brilliant Earth uses this mine, a few miles
south of the Artic Circle.
- Ekati Mine: Canadia and Brilliant Earth share this mine
near Yellowknife.
* Princess Engagement Ring 1 ct. $7,190 Pave Wedding Band
.25 ct. $675
* Snowflake Diamond Pendant, 1.6 ct., $6,500; Snowflake Diamond
Earings,.9 ct., $1,550
Rand
RAND diamonds is a privately owned company that claims to
be anon-conflict diamond organization. RAND buys stones from
South Africa's Premiere mine and from two mines in Botswana,
Arapa and Jaaneng. They offer a provenance report with each
diamond sold in an attempt to a ensure conflict-free status.
Information available at Randdiamond.com
- Rand non-conflict diamond mines (map)
* Arandale Pendant, 1.14 ct., $5,000
* Clockwise from upper left: Oceane ring, 1.7 ct., $16,000;
Solitare Ring, 1.61 ct., $25,000; Princess Pave Solitare
Ring, 1.19 ct., $14,000;Marquet Ring, 1.9 ct., $13,600.
Canadia
CANADIA Diamonds is a privately owned company that's been
in business since 2002, featuring non-conflict diamonds mined
in Canada's Northwest Territories. Available at Canadia.com,
London Jeweler and Fortune-Off.
* (top) Emerald Center, 2.26 ct., $39,000 (middle) Two-Tier
Square Pave,1.84 ct., $9,875 (bottom) Five-stone Diamond
Band, 1.0 ct., $2,175
* Diamond Studs 2.0 ct., $10,400
* The French Pave, 2.02 ct., $36,000
* Fashion Pendant, .27 ct., $1,200
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